Retro Looks & Vintage Inspiration: Sanremo 2025 Outfits

If you're Italian or know/love Italy, you know Sanremo is THE cultural event of the year - it's our Oscars and Superbowl, all rolled into one. Never mind that it comes to you from a nondescript theatre from an otherwise pretty unremarkable city in the north of Italy - it's a piece of cultural history that has been going since 1951 - and, for fashion lovers, it's ageing better every year.

Watching Sanremo with your family (it used to be just a couple of days, now it's pretty much a whole week long) is part and parcel of growing up in Italy. It's ostensibly a singing competition, but it's really so much more - it's the time when the country stops and gets together to watch, listen, and - of course - vote, in more ways than one. As a child growing up, Sanremo wasn't really about fashion. Of course, some performers always stood out of the crowd for their creative choices (such as Patti Pravo, Rettore or Loredana Bertè just as few examples), but they were the exception rather than the norm. Most artists (particularly men) would have been content with an outfit sitting between 'Sunday best' and 'golf gala night'. Oh, how things have changed.

Over the last few years especially, Sanremo has expanded into full-on fashion territory, with the world's top fashion houses falling over themselves to dress the coolest, most in-demand singers.

This year it felt like this merger was complete, with some truly spectacular outfits coming out of opening night. Most relevant to us vintage lovers is the fact that there was a strong retro and vintage influence throughout the best looks of the night. Here are my picks from Sanremo opening night 2025:

1. Achille Lauro in custom Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria (haute couture).
   

   

It doesn't get any more perfect than this, really. Roman bad boy Achille Lauro gets transformed by D&G into a Belle Époque gentleman in 'frack' (a not so veiled homage to Sanremo stalwart and Italian icon Domenico Modugno and his famous song). And yet, beyond the beauty of the ensemble and its incredible design (just look at how the jacket points inward to define the waist), it is the contrast between the elegance of the outfit and Lauro's edginess complete with face tattoos that makes it magic. Any handsome man would have looked great in this - it is the unexpectedness that elevates this outfit to something spectacular and stage-worthy.

2. ComaCose - Valentino by Alessandro Michele
   

   

   
   

Really enjoyed the aesthetic of this duo. She in a Chloé-esque floaty ruffle dress layered over a white lace unitard (fun idea worth copying), him in 70s inspired sky-high waist trousers, burgundy jacket and loose black neck tie. I kind of like all of these pieces separately - add the heavy make up and it all gets a little bit chaotic-energy, but you wouldn't expect anything else from Mr. Michele.

3. Tony Effe in Gucci

You'd be forgiven for not recognizing the tattoo-covered trap artist at all, with his face returned to a blank slate via heavy make up, giving unexpected young Antonio Banderas vibes. His song is a contemporary revisiting of old school, guitar & mandolin, classic Italian ballads, and the tailored double breasted outfit by Gucci fits the brief. Really liked how they allowed his identity to come through the 'costume' element via the heavy boots peeking from under the casual loose fit of the trousers and of course the heavy gold chain. The burgundy leather gloves add interest and vibrancy.

4. Rose Villain in Fendi

In a first night where womenswear was largely disappointing, this fiery orange-red gem stood out from the crowd as worn by Rose Villain, singer and professional statuesque beauty. The full length Fendi couture gown had enough structure to be interesting, yet flowed along with the body, moving like a dancing flame.

5. Irama in Balmain

   

   This is what I mean when I say vintage inspiration, bordering on costume, was everywhere on stage (SO here for it). Irama had his 'Master & Commander' moment courtesy of a sweeping, floor-length navy coat by Balmain complete with shimmering gold braiding and oversize shoulders à la YSL. The coat was shed later in the performance, revealing the shirt to be in fact a softly draped sleeveless top that introduced a delicate, feminine edge.